An explicit reference to neoplasticism painter Piet Mondrian carried the cuts of Roland Mouret’s Resort 2015 collection. “I often think about geometry and the female form,” he told Women’s Wear Daily in reference to the geometric color blocks building the pieces. His goal this season was to illustrate “the challenge of how they [geometry and a women’s body] can work together.”
To do so, he morphed the geometric shapes, wrapping them around the models’ forms to create curve-hugging silhouettes. While the lines were angular, especially in the necklines, the fabrication added delicate touches. Mouret worked a soft nylon-mesh into short skirts and a color-blocked coat with a zip-front. He also placed a few asymmetric pin tucks into the fronts of sleeveless tops and jumpsuits to cocoon the structure slightly. Perhaps the most striking tactic he used to cultivate organic shapes by way of geometry was in skirts that fitted to the models back’s but were angularly draped in the front to resemble scarves, which fluttered subtly in movement.
A “reveal” in movement has been a popular theme on the resort runways. Dior used a similar silky-scarf manipulation to render skirts and Sportmax explored the expression of feminine movement with a collection that moved in it’s story from start to finish. What was not Mondrain was Mouret’s choice of color. The black and white were present. However, Mouret replaced Modrain’s primary colors with Kool-Aid inspired hues. The collection, like a tall glass of the sweet stuff, had an equally refreshing feel. The punchy colors combined with diagonal lines were stimulating: the eye could travel each piece in a different way every time it was explored. Movement was also a present in the order of the collection lineup, which transitioned from high stimulation down to a relaxed minimalism. As it progressed, the warm colors drained. Pink and tangerine pops in the mid section were washed-down, to a mod- reference when worked into their blocked shapes, right in line with the pop-art touches contained in collections like Fendi.
Both vibrant and deep blues carried through to the near end, when all color surrendered to a black and white motif. At first, the patterning became more intricate with the loss of color, as with the different sized polka-dots splashed on a pencil skirt and crop top, to add excitement into the minimal pallet. Then the patterning fell to plain blocks with little contrast, but a touch of animation through texture–as with dresses blocked in a white and icy blue. The last look was the most minimal, a plain black jumpsuit with a white, wrapped neckline. The amazing thing about the collection is the final jumpsuit appears just as high-fashion as the intricately folded top and skirt at the beginning. By way of collections like Veneta, Resort 2015 has been heavy on the theme of an internal confidence that works in partnership casual looks to create an uncontrived luxury.