An explicit reference to neoplasticism painter Piet Mondrian carried the cuts of Roland Mouret’s Resort 2015 collection. “I often think about geometry and the female form,” he told Women’s Wear Daily in reference to the geometric color blocks building the pieces. His goal this season was to illustrate “the challenge of how they [geometry and a women’s body] can work together.” [Read more…]
Archives for May 2014
The work of modernist painter Milton Avery, once called the “greatest colorist” by Hilton Kramar, inspired Tory Burch’s 2015 resort collection. According to American painter Mark Rothko, Avery often used the beaches where he summered as “his repertoire”. Burch took the same approach, drawing inspiration from the sandy shores of Palm Beach to create a collection that sprung from it’s color. The pallet of dusty pinks, ivory, blues, and forest greens set against tan hues resembling beach sands soaked to different shades of water had an overall, sun-bleached appearance. The washed colors naturally progressed into external architectural touches that ran through many of the looks. A mix of floral patterns against ivory backgrounds looked like hand-painted tiles of Spanish-style homes. Rectangles of blue and tan colors staggered up a dress and skirt to give a mosaic appearance. [Read more…]
Hard edge, leather, and denim: the core of Diesel Black-Gold. In the depths of the recession, the description alone was enough to sell products–such was a time when luxury denim ruled. When money is tight and a divergent lust for luxury is at it’s summit, there is no-more-a-sensible splurge than purchasing a pair of high-end jeans: the cost-per-wear is relatively low compared to something like a fur-embellished handbag. Yet, in a post-recession market filled with high-end imitations and a shopper who throws away her clothing well before it’s wear, luxury jeans are no longer a smart buy next to the cheap-and-trendy pants from fast-fashion brands. (to read more about the direction of denim, check out my denim report) [Read more…]
Today, a customer does not need to search far to discover a brand’s history. In a marketing era with an objective to create consumer brand-loyal relationships, fashion companies are increasingly telling “their story” as a tactic to build the connection. Some have done so by way of museum exhibitions, others with fashion films and online archives. But with the 2015 resort collection, Fendi may have discovered the most lucrative approach yet–a way to have the brands history travel alongside the customer. Creative director Karl Lagerfeld used the line to revisit a variety of Fendi’s past collections. In doing so, he makes each consumer an ambassador of the brand story, which not only strengthens their tie, but also exposes the brand to new eyes and increases its appeal. Today, peers are the trusted source. [Read more…]
The design team behind Sportmax conceptualized their 2015 resort collection by thinking about “an expression of feminine movement.” To translate the theme into clothing the Italian brand, iconic for pristine tailoring and high-end outerwear, introduced gentle details through soft pleats and silhouettes that nip-in. The collection demonstrates a tend to more definable womenswear from Sportmax’s much-used squared silhouettes that read androgynous . [Read more…]
“That moment, in the early Eighties, when fashion, art and music came together in New York”
Christopher Bailey’s genius is in reinventing “the classics” by way of classic, British influences– essentially making the old “new again” with other olds. For Burberry Prorsum’s Resort 2015 line, he drew inspiration from the 20th century covers of poetry and fiction books he came across at a flea market.
Nearly every piece of the collection was decorated with words, all variations referencing, as one look put it “The magic and mayhem of British rain”. A long and lean silhouette ran through the collection, the vertical fall of a shower. The rain-drop concept was furthered through reflective pencil skirts made of large sequined discs and a cool color palate that ran through the collection. [Read more…]
In her presentation notes, DKNY’s chief executive officer Jane Chung described the brand’s 2015 resort collection as “Black and White Ball-meets-Factory.” Fittingly, the looks were all, as Women’s Wear Daily puts it “feather, fringe, and fantasy.” However, the mostly monochromatic color choice (save for the black and white combination looks) allowed the collection to maintain a chic urbanism classic of the DKNY name.
The collection had a heavy formal influence, as with the silver-threaded, floral lace dress. Yet, the oversized silhouettes, including baggy pants and boxy-cropped tops, left the overall impression of comfortable and casual wear.
A brand made for the “bold girl” took a “bold move.” Traditional nautical style is commercially safe: seen before, expected for Resort, and fashionable in nearly every zeitgeist; try to imagine a warm season when nautical motifs were not relevant. Naturally, the theme is a market-smart choice for a brand because it is the prototype shoppers imagine clothing for a getaway looks like–Why not give the people what they think they need?
Yet Escada, a brand built on an ethos of “daringness,” couldn’t simply default to a theme of “what is safe” without discrediting it’s personality.